INTRODUCTION


There seems to be a scarcity of UK retirement blogs out there (other than those proffering financial advice). In the absence of being able to read about other people's experiences, I instead offer you my own "Great Big Retirement Adventure."

Planet Retirement can sometimes be a bewildering place. My husband (Mister E) and I have moved from the initial concept through the planning stages to implementation and this site records the whole process.

Please visit from time to time and do add your comments. Popular posts and those highlighting our journey are specifically pinpointed on the right hand side together with a list of topics covered. Alternatively you may prefer to look at the Summary or the Tips from Wisdom Acquired or even our Have Visited List with its retirement atlas and dip in and out of the blog using the links given.




Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Sunday, 28 January 2018

A Sculptural Conundrum




Readers of this blog will know by now that I enjoy modern art and sculpture and have spent many a day visiting galleries and exhibitions, admiring sculpture outdoors as well as inside.

Whilst staying in the Lake District last week, imagine, therefore, my excitement to learn that a piece for a new exhibition called Lakes Ignite 2018 was to be installed only a half mile or so up the beck from where we were staying. Called Ordnance Pavilion, it has been created by Studio MUTT and is intended to acknowledge the impact Ordnance Survey mappings have had on our interaction with the landscape.

Last year the Lake District was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site with the intention that this would help preserve and protect this beautiful English National Park with its rich cultural landscape. Lakes Ignite 2018 aims to celebrate this designation.

Now I like art to surprise and leave a lingering memory or conundrum to puzzle over. This piece certainly did that but maybe I'm simply getting old or else am a Philistine after all as, with the backdrop of  Wordsworth's "solemn Pikes of Langdale," it wasn't at all what I was expecting. What do you think?

Saturday, 27 January 2018

Lessons in Life from Alfred Wainwright



It is hard to visit the Lake District and not be reminded of Alfred Wainwright, the celebrated fellwalker and author whose Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells in seven volumes remains the leading authority on hill walking in the area.

Whilst out in the open air last week many of his written thoughts also came to mind. The joy of shared experience and of the human sub-conscious perhaps, or an attempt to answer the most profound of questions that haunt our every moment.

Wainwright's answer however, whilst illuminating, fell short of providing a definitive answer to that one word question, "Why?":

"...more and more people are turning to the hills; they find something in these wild places that can be found nowhere else. It may be solace for some, satisfaction for others: the joy of exercising muscles that modern ways of living have cramped, perhaps; or a balm for jangled nerves in the solitude and silence of the peaks; or escape from the clamour and tumult of everyday existence. It may have something to do with man's subconscious search for beauty, growing keener as so much in the world grows uglier. It may be a need to re-adjust his sights, to get out of his narrow groove and climb above it to see wider horizons and truer perspectives. In a few cases, it may even be a curiousity inspired by A Wainwright's Pictorial Guides. Or it may be, and for most walkers it will be, quite simply, a deep love of the hills, a love that has grown over the years, whatever motive first took them there: a feeling that these hills are friends, tried and trusted friends, always there when needed. It is a question every man must answer for himself." (Book 4, The Southern Fells)


Perhaps I ought not to have placed too much faith in an author who is also notorious for writing,"There's no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing." (A Coast to Coast Walk).  

The Lake District is renowned for its wet weather (how else could it be so green) and even clad in appropriate layers with waterproof trousers, hooded coat and boots, there was no disguising the torrents of rain and swirling cloud that followed the snow and for most of the week deprived us of any kind of view whilst turning the ground into a slippery muddy bog.

Still there is always his: "The fleeting hour of life of those who love the hills is quickly spent, but the hills are eternal. Always there will be the lonely ridge, the dancing beck, the silent forest; always there will be the exhilaration of the summits. These are for the seeking, and those who seek and find while there is still time will be blessed both in mind and body." (Book 7, The Western Fells)


Unfortunately, in my case he totally underestimated the effect. I certainly spent a week in our favourite location in Langdale revelling in a forest beside a beck surrounded by high ridges. However, whilst I may have felt blessed in body, somewhere along the way my capacity of mind let me down again. Moreover and as has previously been the case, my lack of mental awareness was again closely related to a beloved camera. Last March I regaled for you the tale of how the dropping of a camera case set off a chain of  inopportune lapses. Then on our last stay in Langdale, in August 2017, I managed to leave behind the camera charger that I so much needed for the ensuing trip to Norway, recovering it a month later (and that after mislaying a charger for my previous camera). On this most recent occasion, however, I have outshone all previous failings and appear to have left behind my recently acquired camera, lens protector, case and USB connector! My mind may have been blessed, but with what I do not care to speculate. 

Of course, I am still in denial. Didn't I check our lodge before leaving; surely the camera case and contents were by my feet throughout the journey even if I can't now recall actually seeing them there; how come I even felt smug in the knowledge that I had most carefully made sure to pack the charger and ensure that the camera and accessories were piled on a chair for collection with an assortment of other important items all of which made it home? Was I really so distracted by the rain tumbling from the sky in torrents that, in preparing to make the short run from door to car, I overlooked my most treasured and constantly used item?

Yes I have made a telephone call. Somebody is ringing me back tomorrow. In the meantime I can only hope and draw solace from another of AW's quotes:
"You were made to soar, to crash to earth, then to rise and soar again."

At present, I am in crash position, crumpled and dejected.

Wednesday, 3 January 2018

Festive Fever




Eventful or calm and peaceful, I never quite know how to describe that week beginning with Christmas and ending with New Year. Interspersed with periods of: family and togetherness, memories and resolutions, indulgence and even gluttony, activity and then indolence, nostalgia and reflection; it is definitely a unique time of the year.

For us this year was different in that for the first time in modern history the eldest was at the opposite side of the world and not therefore with us to enjoy what have become our own family traditions. Even the beloved Boxing Day Quiz had to be deferred when he failed to rustle up an internet connection on the national park trek that he was undertaking.

A quarter down, we still manoeuvred our way through the week, even managing an overnight trip to Hull before its reign as the UK City of Culture 2017 finished. Less than 80 miles away, it took an end of year cut off date to get us there. Who thought working to deadlines has no application to retirement?


Of course we ended up travelling on the snowiest day of the winter so far, but with the early evening darkness were able to appreciate not only the city's Christmas lights but also a series of robotic installations in the atmospheric old town area by Jason Bruges on the theme of "Where do we go from here?"

There is something almost sureal about standing on a cold December night watching a robot attempt to communicate with a statue of William Wilberforce, not to mention a circle of them working together to send a series of laser beams upwards or the more inquisitive set outside the Minster which seemed to deliberately inquire and to interrogate the visitor beneath.

I really appreciate how art speaks to the individual and we each take something complex to describe but personally moving or inspiring away from it 

We wandered from gallery to gallery.

Amongst them we took in the Turner prize short-list at the Ferens Art Gallery and after seeing the winning collection by Lubaina Himid, I am of course inspired with the idea of buying china plates from charity shops and adding my own artistic flair and cultural message (if only) to them.


An exhibition that stood out for all of us was a Portrait of a City especially the photographs by Martin Parr of food in Hull. It did little to convince us of haute cuisine on Humberside nor were we persuaded of the need to try a deep fried pattie but I was left with the memory of the vibrancy of  the culinary delights on offer and, albeit solely in the imagination, the smell of cooking. 

We also enjoyed the display entitled "Turner and the Whale." JMW Turner's paintings of whaling ships were showcased alongside pictures from the Hull school of art and artefacts from the historic whaling industry in the city. Forget painting china plates, I want to create a masterpiece in oils of sea, and light and waves.

A feverish boost of creativity lasting 24 hours had to be a sure fire way to return home uplifted, motivated and ready to make my resolutions for 2018. Except it wasn't... yes, I had festive fever alright but of the sneezing, high temperature, runny nosed variety. Confined to bed for two days, I missed the New Year's arrival and have been too weak and befuddled to consider my objectives for what is already the present year.

Thankfully the brain fog is now lifting but to make life easier for my somewhat delicate state (I exaggerate), I simply avow to continue with those resolutions from last year which somehow seem even more appropriate with increasing global turmoil. So once again in 2018 and without comment on how I fared last year, I resolve to follow what I seek to be the pattern of my retirement and:

1. Be happy and enjoy the fun in everything
2. Stand up for what I believe in and endeavour to engage others to fight the cause
3. Use less (avoiding single use plastic in particular), live simply and shop locally wherever possible
4. Think globally and be aware of the impact of my footprints on the planet and the suffering of all those in war zones or denied the liberties that I enjoy, doing what I can to raise awareness and improve outcomes
5. In an annual tradition, or perhaps because I'm still suffering from a virus induced delirium, lose weight and get fit.

Finally, albeit a little delayed: best wishes for 2018, everyone.



Monday, 27 November 2017

The Grand Finale: Wellington and Auckland

 

Wellington with a population of just over 400,000 people is the capital of New Zealand, neatly placed at the bottom end of the North Island across the Cook Straits from the South Island. Auckland with a population of over 1.5 million is the country's largest city but was its capital for a brief period of 24 years only, commencing in 1841. Although now both modern, outward looking cities, they are very different.
We were privileged to stay two nights in Wellington in  a harbourside hotel, within walking distance of all the main sights. The city has a reputation for being "edgy." That's a state that is hard to define but you do come away feeling that it lives up to the concept, regardless. Coffee shops and craft beers; sculptures and a redeveloped waterfront; the cable car/railway and botanical gardens; the wind that whistles through and makes you bend double; the historic buildings especially around the Parliamentary quarter. 
We visited the National Museum, Te Papa, with its floors devoted to Maori history and the natural world and geological phenomena of the country; perhaps that is somewhere that may be of more interest as an introduction to the country as, nearing the end of our time there, it served more as a reminder of what we had seen and learnt but was woefully incapable of reproducing fully the experiences within the confines of a museum's walls. We did, however, see an exhibition in the National Library which concluded our journey of discovery and included the original Declaration of Independence, Waitangi Treaty and the Women's Suffrage Petition (women were granted the right to vote in 1890, 38 years before their counterparts in Britain).

We flew back to Auckland for our last 3 nights in New Zealand, the longest consecutive stay
that we made anywhere during our trip. Although we had passed through Auckland on 3 previous occasions, we had not explored the centre and now did so including the waterfront and Viaduct Harbour,  Britomart, the Art Gallery and of course the Sky Tower. It's true, people really do pay to throw themselves off the tower (rope attached); an entertaining spectacle for those admiring the views from the revolving deck.

We also went by ferry to Waiheke where we made up for failing to visit a winery in either Matakana or Marlborough and sat out in the sun, surrounded by vines and a distant view of the Auckland skyline, to do the whole wine tasting experience.


Wellington may be edgy but Auckland seeks to be sophisticated; the only place in New Zealand that tries, some might say. Of course many deliberately distance themselves from it as a result, with countless numbers of people telling us how they hated the traffic, the crowds, the noise and the bustle. Globally Auckland is not an anomaly but in New Zealand it is unique.

Finally, we spent our last day experiencing a typical North Shore Sunday in the style of the eldest and his girlfriend as well as numerous locals: Takapuna Market then the beach. What isn't there to like about that?

Sunday, 26 November 2017

South Island in a Week



So many organised tours of New Zealand are conducted at whistle-stop pace. We were lucky to be able to take our trip around North Island at a much slower gait even if it did involve, for the most part, a different resting place every night. South Island, however, is renowned for its scenery and to appreciate that within a limited timescale of 8 days it was important that we avoided, so far as possible, mist and rain. Unfortunately most of our week was subject to a weather warning for the west coast with storms and heavy rain or snow depending on the altitude. When we planned our trip we had envisaged visiting the glaciers;  we adapted our route, however, to follow the sun and in so doing probably drove much further than we had initially intended.

Whilst New Zealand's public transport system outside of the main cities is nothing like we are accustomed to in Europe, internal flights to and from Auckland are plentiful and, if booked sufficently in advance, reasonably priced. So we flew to Queenstown and even before we landed were marvelling at the scenery from the air.

We picked up a hire car at the airport and headed immediately on the picturesque journey to Te Anau, positioning ourselves ready for a much shorter day trip to Milford Sound and in anticipation that we might even catch it in sunshine, a rare occurence for a place that endures rain on more than 260 days a year. It was glorious when we left Te Anau and it continued so right up to our entry into the Homer Tunnel where we  engaged with a Kea (prudently closing the car doors, it was so curious) whilst waiting for the green light to proceed. We emerged on the other side into a different climatic zone of low cloud and mist. It didn't rain but there was no blue sky; we still saw penguins and seals as well as the beautiful fjord scenery.







We retraced our steps to Queenstown which was no disappointment as the scenery really is marvellous; all those colours I've blogged about before with the addition of snow-capped mountains. Renowned as the adrenaline capital of New Zealand if not the World, we did pass some time watching bungee jumping from the top of the cable car ride but could not be enticed to participate. By the lake there was a real vibe of activity from sunseekers and musicians which continued into the evening when the former took to the restaurants and bars, many eating outdoors.

The next day we continued to Wanaka for more lakeside and mountain scenery, 

 via Arrowtown

and Cardrona with their goldmining heritages. 

On the South Island we passed through farming country where fields are irrigated to produce lush grass for the enormous herds of  cows and sheep and in some places deer too. Whereas we had been accustomed on North Island to the roadside verges being adorned with redhot pokers and altar lilies in Northland, Potukhawa trees in Coromandel and then bright yellow gorse bushes in the Waikato region, on South Island there were miles and miles of lupins, frequently the yellow tree lupins but between Wanaka and Christchurch in hues of pastel shades. The weather closing in on the West meant that we were denied a view of Aoraki Mount Cook but I still stepped into the Church of the Good Shepherd at Lake Tekapo to imagine that perfectly framed Alpine picture, through its altar window.

 
Christchurch was a reminder of the force of nature and the devastating after effects of earthquakes. Six years on the evidence of the strength of the quake that struck in 2011 is still in evidence and we were told that it is estimated that rebuilding is going to take another 14 years. The spirit of resilience showed in the quirky shopping area developed from shipping containers and the now famous "cardboard" cathedral. Fortunately both the Art Gallery and Museum survived
  
Although we were heading to Picton and a ferry to Wellington to connect with a flight back to Auckland, the most direct route through Kaikoura was still closed due  to the earthquake last year. Instead we drove over Lewis Pass to Nelson and spent a day visiting the Abel Tasman National Park where we hopped from beach to beach by water taxi, encountering several weka at one point. 
It was beautiful and, after  4 weeks travelling around New Zealand, we had truly reached the stage where the views had to be really astounding to impress, but they did.






Fortunately the drive to Picton along Queen Charlotte Drive following the sound rather than the inland route still lived up to scenic expectations, although our hope to repeat the experience from the water in the afternoon was dashed when our ferry sailing was cancelled and we travelled in the dark instead out of the Marlborough Sound and across the Cook Strait to Wellington.

We couldn't help but make comparisons with North Island as we travelled and were pleased that we had organised our trip in the order we had as it would have been a shame if the scenery on North Island appeared an anti-climax after the sheer enormity of that on the South. We were surprised to discover that the roads on South Island were on the whole better than those we used on the North, but disappointed to find the overwhelming friendliness and conversation of everyone on North Island reduced, by comparison, to tacit indifference on the South. 


There were distinct differences too in the flora and fauna, including even in the seagull population with the red-beaked gull inhabiting the North and the black-beaked gull the South. 


Fortunately and despite a 5 week trip we have still left much to explore on both islands, an inducement perhaps to undertake another trip in the future.



Saturday, 25 November 2017

Volcanoes, Geysers, and Gardens




We organised the Labour Day holiday weekend to spend it with the eldest on the Coromandel Peninsula. Unfortunately the beauty of the scenery was marred by heavy rain impeding the view, but not our enjoyment. We stayed in a little wooden cabin for 2 nights, above a stream with a resident long fin eel directly beneath us.


During our travels we came across a number of eccentric New Zealanders, and Stu on Highway 309 in the Coromandel has to rank amongst them. He has over 100 wild pigs which roam amidst his collection of rusting vehicles as well as onto the road. Stu wanders amongst them, talking to the multitude of tourists who stop to fondle the pigs and take photographs.




 The Coromandel was also our introduction to the amazing geological phenomena that permeate New Zealand when we were able to soak our feet in the hot underground spring on the appropriately named Hot Water Beach.



When the eldest returned to Auckland, we headed southwards to Rotorua for more geothermal experiences. We briefly stopped in Tirau where idiosyncratic thinking has resulted in the town paying homage to that popular New Zealand building material: corrugated iron.

 


In Rotorua we were looked after by Vivien, the owner of The Redwoods Bed and Breakfast accommodation ,who superbly planned every minute of our two days in the area. As a result we enjoyed not only walking amongst the giant Redwood trees as a respite for the hydrogen sulphide overload but also comparing the Blue and Green Lakes (Lakes Tikitapu and Rotokakahi), both formed from ancient volcanic activity and the colour of the first being due to the pumice rock on the lake bed. 

The Maori village of Ohinemutu in Rotorua was an experience in itself. St Faith's Church surprisingly relied on pillars and beams with Maori carved art to support its roof, whilst there was  a large window overlooking the lake with an etching of Christ to all intent walking on water. Outside however, the extent of the geothermal activity was evident with hydrogen sulphide steaming from roadside vents and in nearby parkland. The stench of rotten eggs pervades.

 
Of course the main natural attractions were contained within fee paying parks and, on Vivien's instruction, we visited Te Puia and Wai-O-Tapu. The first had impressive geyser displays and bubbling mud pools whilst the second presented an awesome display of colour stained rock and lakes, in both cases the result of the active nature of the earth's crust and the mix of chemicals and minerals erupting to the surface (apologies I am neither scientist nor geologist).


 
Heading on to Taupo and the Tongariro National Park we came face to face with active, snow-topped volcanoes including Mount Ngauruhoe, the setting for Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings films.

We escaped this area of  Mother Earth's potential menaces, interesting and scenic though it was, for the more humdrum Hamilton with its magnificent themed gardens. We stopped at the famous Waitomo GlowWorm Caves on the way and whilst they deserve their rave reviews, I am surprised that not more foreign tourists include Hamilton's Gardens on their must-see lists as they rank amongst the best I have ever seen although unfortunately it rained throughout our visit.

Perhaps we needed to expunge that bad air and barren rock from our lungs and vision because we completed our circuit of the middle part of North Island by visiting another garden the next day too when we met the eldest at Auckland's Botanical Gardens. It is a vast area where the native species are well explained and, in our opinion, it was superior in both content and layout to the other botanical gardens we subsequently visited at both Christchurch and Wellington.