This Time Last Week

This time a week ago we were returning from Madrid after a far too brief trip, the aim of which was to sample the delights of the Spanish capital, especially the Museo del Prado and the Museo Reina Sofia. 

Neither of the two art museums disappointed. In fact we left the Reina Sofia somewhat disturbed by the impact on us of the collection stretching from 1900 to 1982, from Modernity to Post Modernity through Cubism and Surrealism and the ugly period where war and conflict impacted on creativity with an emphasis on works by Picasso, Dali and Miro. It was fascinating to see before you the effect on art of historic events and whilst one of the most famous pieces is Picasso's "Guernica," the exhibition that surrounded it of the preliminary artwork and sketches leading up to and following the main piece was perhaps the most poignant and harrowing. How illuminating too to wander from Salvador Dali's realistic picture "Girl at the Window" to then encounter his surrealist works including "The Great Masturbator" that seemed to draw most attention. Five decades of Picasso's work are also featured wandering from Realism to Cubism and then Surrealism.

It was difficult to believe that after the emotional impact of Reina Sofia we could possibly enjoy the Prado in the same way, with its collection from the 12th to 19th centuries. After all Ruben's and Goya's naked nymphs may be pieces of adornment and beauty worthy of admiration but could they conjecture an ardent response? It didn't really matter, for the collection is so vast and most of the paintings so large you just gaze with wonderment. It is the largest assembly of Spanish painting in the world and of course both Goya and Diego de Velazquez feature in detail. Obviously Medieval and Renaissance art is dominated by religious scenes but, when presented in piece after piece by El Greco, it is hard to imagine one is viewing something created in the early 1600's rather than the mid 20th century. Dutch and Italian painters are well represented and one of the delights for me was sitting down in front of two versions of "Adam and Eve" painted by Titian and spotting the differences.

Viewing vast galleries can be hard on the feet but uplifting for the spirit.

However, we found plenty of other diversions in Madrid too, walking for hours on end around the Bourbon, Hapsburg and literary areas of a fascinating old town. Not only did Christmas lights provide a dazzling show but trees with their autumn foliage and leaves rustling gently underfoot, especially in Parque del Retiro, provided a magnificent display.

The architecture too was a must-see, ranging from old New York style buildings on Gran Via to the ornate Palacio Real, from simple 16th century monasteries to splendid squares like the Plaza Mayor with its painted walls and Christmas market.

Ultimately though the crowning glory had to be the overwhelming number of tapas bars; wine and tapas at any time of the day, or so it seemed, albeit for variety you can opt for churros and a cup of hot chocolate, popular both for breakfast and late at night. In fact, staying as we did near to Mercado de San Miguel we could enjoy them all inside one glazed-in marketplace.

Forget the Spanish costas, for the real Spain and its art, it just has to be Madrid.